How to choose exfoliants for cosmetic formulas

Exfoliating cleansers can give a much deeper clean than regular cleansing formulas by mechanically scrubbing away surface dead skin cells. But just which types of exfoliants should be used for the face compared to the body, and which types of cosmetic formulas should they be used in for different skin types?

This blog will explain how to choose the right type of exfoliant for the right type of formula – made even easier with the Create Cosmetic Formulas program.

Formulating exfoliant cleansers step 1: where is the product going to be used?

The first thing you will need to decide is where the exfoliant product is going to be used: face, body or feet?
Exfoliant formulas for the face should contain small and reasonably smooth exfoliant materials; compared to exfoliant formulas for the body, which may contain generally larger and rougher exfoliant materials; while exfoliant formulas for the feet may contain exfoliant particles that are too abrasive to be used on other parts of the body. For example:

Jojoba beads and bamboo powder may be suitable for the face;
Plant kernels, shells and salt or sugar may be suitable in body products;
Pumice, plant shells and husks may be suitable for foot care.

Formulating exfoliant cleansers step 2: do you want cleansing or caring?

The next thing you’ll need to decide is whether you want the product to be a foaming cleanser (the most thorough cleanse), an oleogel (oil to milk mild cleanser) or crème cleanser (also very mild).

Foaming exfoliants are great for oily and acne prone skin types and where you want a really deep cleanse;
Oleogels are very mild and great for sensitive and very dry skin types;
Crème cleanser based exfoliants are also very mild for dry, mature skin types.
Salt and sugar scrubs are caring scrubs for the body, exfoliating and moisturizing at the same time. They can also be used as more caring formulas for the feet, where a foaming exfoliant is not desired.

You can find all of these formulation builds in the Create Cosmetic Formulas software, to suit individual skin types.

Formulating exfoliant cleansers step 3: how much exfoliant do you use?

In the Create Cosmetic Formulas program, for each of the exfoliant formulation builds, there are recommended inputs of exfoliant to use. This input is based on the type of formula you are creating – and the Create Cosmetic Formulas program guides you every step of the way. As an added tip:

for a light exfoliating effect, use the lower recommended input in your cosmetic formula;
for a more thorough exfoliating effect, use the high side of the recommended input in your exfoliant formula.

Formulating exfoliant cleansers step 4: stabilise the exfoliant material well.

Fortunately, the Create Cosmetic Formulas program makes stabilising the exfoliant material easy – inbuilt into each Create Cosmetic Formulas exfoliant are essential stability factors. Exfoliating ingredients, because of their large particle size, are particularly vulnerable to floating or sinking over time in cosmetic formulas. The cosmetic stabilising ingredients used help ensure your exfoliant product will hold the exfoliating particles suspended evenly over time, but stability testing is still strongly recommended (and your brand’s responsibility) to confirm the shelf life of your product depending on the cosmetic ingredients you choose.

Formulating exfoliant cleansers step 5: pair your exfoliant choice with extracts and essential oils

This final step is not so much a requirement, but instead a recommendation. Make your cosmetic exfoliant product more appealing to your target market by pairing the exfoliant ingredient you choose with selected plant extracts, oils and essential oils to build a product story. This also helps ensure the desired performance from your formula specific to your target market’s needs, and can add extra appeal to the product when promoting it.

So… now it’s over to you!

As with every great formula, it starts with the question: what do you want to create today?

Use these tips to get started with your exfoliant formula and use the Create Cosmetic Formulas program to make the rest of your ingredient selections easy.

Happy formulating!

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