Why are different emulsifiers used in skincare formulas?

 

Have you ever looked at all the different emulsifier choices and terminology and just wondered… why? Anionic, cationic, non-ionic; hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB); charge incompatibilities; overcoming incompatibilities and sensitivies… does choosing the right emulsifier ever seem overwhelming? And just why do cosmetic formulas contain a few different types of emulsifiers anyway?


This blog will help you understand the different types of emulsifiers that go into cosmetic formulas, why they get used, and how the Create Cosmetic Formulas program makes your emulsifier selection easy.

 

Why are different emulsifiers used in skincare formulas

Skincare emulsifiers: charge matters

The most important consideration when choosing an emulsifier is its charge. There are three types:

  • Anionic: these emulsifiers have a negative charge, and in water-based formulas, have a very strong stabilising effect on emulsions. When in solid form, they can also add good viscosity to your formula, but careful… too much can make your lotion or cream irritating on the skin (because of the charge) and can also be prone to instability in very cool climates or when electrolyte rich ingredients – such as certain charged active and functional materials - are present.
  • Non-ionic: these emulsifiers have no charge and are generally very mild on the skin. They help reduce the potential irritancy of anionic or cationic emulsifiers, but don’t usually provide enough long-term stability to an emulsion when used on their own. They have less ingredient incompatibilities than charged emulsifiers, and when in solid (waxy) form, can add viscosity to your creams and lotions. They can also be very prone to climate-induced viscosity changes in a formula, which can impact shelf life.
  • Cationic: these emulsifiers have a positive charge, and are generally best used in hair conditioner formulas, where they impart a beautiful silky and slippery feeling as well as detangling properties. They are incompatible with anionic emulsifiers and can be irritating to the scalp; and are therefore best paired with non-ionic emulsifiers.

In the Create Cosmetic Formulas program, we always make sure the formulas you create have the right types of anionic, non-ionic and/or cationic emulsifiers, and the software guides you on the right proportions to formulate your desired cosmetic product form.

 

What is HLB?

HLB means hydrophile-lipophile balance. Since emulsifiers have a water loving end and an oil loving end, they are rated using a HLB system based on whether they prefer water (and therefore suit o/w emulsions best) or oil (and therefore better suited to w/o emulsions).


In the past, Cosmetic Chemists were bogged down with tricky and complex HLB calculations. Now, however, we can use HLB ratings to make emulsifier selection easy. The Create Cosmetic Formulas program makes emulsifier selection even easier, as the software takes care of the HLB calculations for you! Just follow the programs selections and guided inputs, and you will get the right HLB for your lotion, cream or butter every single time!

 

Emulsifiers to get the right consistency

You will need different combinations of emulsifiers to build stable lotions, creams and butters, and also if you want to create crème-gels, serums and conditioners. Not only does the Create Cosmetic Formulas program have multiple emulsion formulas for you to choose from, such as lotion-like serum, o/w lotion, o/w crème-gel, o/w cream, o/w body butter, w/o cream, w/o ointment and even various types of leave in, wash out and treatment conditioners for the hair… the software also provides the exact proportions of your chosen emulsifiers within each formula to help you get the exact consistency you want to achieve. Want to make natural and organic emulsions? Its easy with the Create Cosmetic Formulas program – most of the ingredients are naturally derived so choose from a huge array of natural emulsifiers, or formulate completely organic emulsions and get them certified organic!


Want a thicker emulsion? Use the upper limits guided by the software. Want a milkier lotion? Use the lower limits guided by the software. Within each cosmetic formula build, you can make fine adjustments to suit the exact viscosity, consistency and even sensory you want to achieve with your emulsion.


Read this blog on how to create moisturising formulas for different skin types.

 

Stabilise your emulsions easily

Its not just the emulsifiers in your formula that impact stability. A good shelf life is also impacted by the types of viscosity modifiers, oil input and even actives you select.
Using the Create Cosmetic Formulas software, you don’t need to worry about:

  • Knowing stabilising gums – the program guides you on what else you’ll need to help stabilise your emulsions, then you can pick and choose which ones you want to use (or avoid).
  • Calculating lipid input – the program guides you on the right inputs and types of oils to suit each emulsion type.
  • Incompatibilities – the program won’t let you pair incompatible cosmetic ingredients.
  • Preservation – the program will guide you on this step too, making sure you only select effective preservatives at the right input to suit your consumer and other ingredients selected in your cosmetic formula.

Read how to make the right oil selections for your formulas in this blog; and learn more about preservatives in cosmetic formulas with this blog. 

 

Want to know more about cosmetic emulsifiers?

With the Create Cosmetic Formulas program, you don’t need to know the how, why and what of emulsifier selection because the formulation software guides you every step of the way. However, if you do want to learn more:

Or… simply enjoy the Create Cometic Formulas program without needing to learn – the software will help you make the right cosmetic ingredient selections every time.
 

Happy formulating!

 

Take our quiz: should you use a program to create cosmetic formulas or learn cosmetic science?
Find out which solution is best for you with our simple quiz!
 

Try the create cosmetic formulas program today! We’re so confident you’ll love how it helps you create cosmetic formulas, it comes with a 24-hour money back guarantee.

See how easy it is to: