Why do some cosmetic formulas need heating?

 

If you are new to formulating, you may be wondering, why do some cosmetic formulas need heating as part of their method, and others don’t?
This blog will take a look at the chemistry behind why some cosmetic formulas need heating, and when it’s best to avoid heat to ensure the finished product is stable and effective.

But don’t worry – if you are new to formulating and aren’t sure about the correct method, our Create Cosmetic Formulas program means you don’t need to know what to do, as it will always give you the correct method for the cosmetic ingredients you have chosen.


You can also try our FREE cosmetic formulation fundamentals masterclass for loads of other cosmetic formulation tips and information ideal for when you are starting out…
 

Why do some cosmetic formulas need heating?

Waxy cosmetic ingredients need heating to be mixed

Waxy cosmetic ingredients such as beeswax, other plant waxes and emulsifying waxes will always need heating. This is to alter their form from solid to liquid, so they can be mixed with other liquid components of your cosmetic formula.
This is very easy to understand with balm formulas – if you want the liquid oils in your balm to be set, you need to mix them with something solid. At the same time, if you want the moisture protection of beeswax on your skin, you can’t spread it as it comes straight! Heating and mixing your plant waxes with oils in varying proportions can give you just the right sort of serum, gloss, balm or even stick consistency. Not sure how to get the right level of hardness? Don’t worry, you don’t need to know how, our Create Cosmetic Formulas program picks the right inputs for you. Watch these videos to see how easy it is to create your own oily gels-balms or even sticks:

Cosmetic emulsifiers that come in waxy form must also be melted and mixed sufficiently with the oil phase of the formula to ensure they will do their job properly. If they are not heated then mixed properly, your cosmetic sample will contain grainy or waxy particles and will separate with an early shelf life.
You may also find some surfactants come in solid form as flakes or powders: these too need heating (usually gently) before they can be incorporated into the formula. As they foam excessively, stirring must be done carefully to mix them into the formula.
Still not sure about what needs heating and to what temperature? Don’t worry, our Create Cosmetic Formulas program tells you exactly what to do based on the ingredients you pick.

 

What about cosmetic powders?

Some cosmetic powders, such as colourants and exfoliants, don’t need heating to mix into the formula properly. These can normally be mixed at room temperature in a suitably miscible substance – such as oil or water – depending on what sort of ingredient it is. Again, our Create Cosmetic Formulas program takes the guess work out of heating and mixing, with simple steps it creates to suit the cosmetic ingredients you select.

 

I’ve read that plant oils should not be heated…

If you are creating a serum, lotion or cream where you are using waxy emulsifiers, you should be heating the plant oils with the emulsifiers, then mixing the combination sufficiently, to make sure the emulsifiers can do their job properly. If you add plant oils after the waxy emulsifiers have cooled, you will have free-floating oil in your emulsion… and that will lead to early separation and instability of your cosmetic product and formula.

 

What cosmetic ingredients should not be heated?

Generally speaking, when making cosmetics, do not heat:

  • antioxidants – unless you are making a balm that sets solid; in which case you would add them just before setting point.
  • fragrances and essential oils – unless you are making a balm, in which case they should be mixed with antioxidants and added just before setting point.
  • plant extracts and active ingredients – unless the supplier tells you specifically that they should be heated.
  • preservatives – unless you are sure they are tolerant of heat, you could inactivate them!

Still not sure what should be heated in your cosmetic formula to get the best results? Don’t worry, our Create Cosmetic Formulas program takes the guess work out of heating and mixing, with simple steps it creates to suit the cosmetic ingredients you select.
 

Happy formulating!

 

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