How to choose proteins for skin and hair care formulas

 

Hydrolysed proteins are an important additive for skin and hair care formulas – our skin and hair are both made of protein!

But with so many different types of proteins available, how do you choose? What is the difference between proteins for cosmetic formulas, and how do you know which will work best in your cosmetic formula? Are there really vegan sources of proteins for skin and hair care formulas? Read this blog to find out…


 

How to choose proteins for skin and hair care formulas

 

What types of proteins are used in cosmetic formulas?

The type of proteins in our skin and hair is insoluble in water, so the proteins that get used in skin and hair care formulas are usually supplies as hydrolysed proteins. This means they have been broken down into their component amino acids or peptide molecules and made water soluble, so they can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations relatively easily, yet still bio-compatible with the skin or hair on application.

How hydrolysed proteins fill ‘gaps’ in hair cuticle and
dry, damaged or flaking outer skin cells to
restore smoothness, softness and protect against trans-epidermal water loss.
 


How to choose proteins for skin and hair care formulas.

When reviewing the types of hydrolysed proteins you want to use in your cosmetic formulas, you will need to look for these key selection criteria:

  • the source:
    • if being vegan friendly is important to you, look for a plant sourced protein. Chemically, they are still a mixture of amino acids that make up structural proteins which are bio-mimetic with the skin, so still just as effective as the non-vegan friendly counterparts. There are several available and in the Create Cosmetic Formulas program such as hydrolyzed: hemp protein, lupine protein, quinoa protein, soy protein and wheat protein. Only silk proteins are not vegan friendly, as they come from the silk worm.
  • additives, for extra benefits:
    • we have a hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolysed rice protein in the Create Cosmetic Formulas program – this specialized protein is bonded with a cationic agent making it extra substantive to the hair for extra conditioning benefits. Its also vegan friendly too!
  • molecular weight:
    • low molecular weight hydrolysed proteins can penetrate within the cuticle of the hair for structural integrity and strength; or the very outer layers of the epidermis for instant smoothing, skin repair and trans-epidermal water loss protection.
    • high molecular weight hydrolysed proteins are relatively large (on a molecular scale!) and highly compatible with our skin and hair to fill in ‘gaps’ where damage exists on the outside of the hair shaft or outside the epidermal skin cells. By filling in these gaps, they restore structural integrity, strength, flexibility and can even smooth out damaged cuticles and fill in some of the gaps in split ends. They provide significant trans-epidermal water loss protection by creating a breathable barrier on the skin that feels smooth and moisturizing.


Despite what you might read on the internet, hydrolysed proteins do not penetrate beyond the very outer layers of the epidermis or cuticle of the hair – even when very low molecular weight, they are just too large! But by being part of the outer matrix of the skin or hair, and highly compatible with the skin and the hair, they can provide fantastic structural and restorative benefits, as well as an instant smoothing and conditioning feel.

Because they are water soluble, their addition to a formula will not weigh down hair or cause tack on application to the skin.

 

 

 

How much hydrolysed protein should be added to a cosmetic formula?

Different hydrolysed proteins will need different inputs in your formulas – this is because of their different molecular weights, substantivity, and concentrations. One of the great things about the Create Cosmetic Formulas program is we have pre-loaded the right inputs for you to choose from without needing to know all of this. Just look up the benefits each material will have in your chosen formula, the form you can easily source at the required price, and add to your formula within the range that is pre-programmed for you!

 

Why add proteins to cosmetic formulas?

Hydrolysed proteins are not only a highly functional additive for your cosmetic formula, they are also a fantastic addition to your marketing story! So, what are you waiting for, get creating cosmetic formulas with hydrolysed proteins today, and be excited about the results you get straight away.
 

Happy formulating!
 

Try the create cosmetic formulas program today! We’re so confident you’ll love how it helps you create cosmetic formulas, it comes with a 24-hour money back guarantee.

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