How to create mascara formulas in 5 simple steps

Diane Grover 04.2026

Looking to create your own mascara formulas and achieve that smooth buildable consistency every time, without the need for advanced formulation knowledge? Our Create Cosmetic Formulas guide simplifies the process! 

Follow our comprehensive 5-step guide to start crafting your own mascara formulas today. Read on to learn how!

Start by logging into your Create Cosmetic Formulas subscription then…
 

How to create mascara formulas in 5 simple steps

1. Select Makeup, Mascara, as the type of formula you would like to create today, then click Create.

Mascara: Our Create Cosmetic Formulas program uses water as the base ingredient in mascara formulas so you don’t need to select anything here, the program will automatically adjust the water content as you select other materials. The first selection you need to make is the added extras/extracts. The added extras/extracts are what give your mascara its marketing story. Do you want a lengthening mascara, a lash growth mascara? I have chosen blue lotus extract for its hair conditioning properties and horsetail extract for its mineral rich, hair strengthening properties. I have also included a naturally derived chelating agent to boost preservative and antioxidant activity.  

 

2. Choose your viscosity modifier and humectant.

 

For the viscosity modifier, I have chosen xanthan gum to create a stable gel-like structure which will help to evenly suspend and reduce the settling of colour pigments. For the humectant, I’m using glycerin which will keep the mascara from drying out in the tube and provide a smooth glide during application. The Create Cosmetic Formulas program will give you a recommended input range for all materials.  I have added both the glycerin and xanthan at the midpoint allowing me to make only minor adjustments if I want to tweak the final product. 

 

3. Choose the emulsifiers and waterproofing agent.


Anionic and non-ionic emulsifiers are used in mascara to build a stable system and further build viscosity. I have chosen stearic acid to help build a creamy wax-like viscosity which will help the mascara adhere to the lashes without flaking. Cithrol GMS A/S was also chosen to help control the flow of the mascara ensuring that it is not too runny and not too stiff. The emulsifiers keep the oil and water phases bound together avoiding phase separation. I have also included a water proofing agent to reduce smudging from tears, sweat, oil, and humidity.

 

4. Select lipids and consistency factor

The lipid phase is set at 6.5%, with a 5% consistency factor. I’ve incorporated sea buckthorn fruit oil to enhance lash conditioning, improve softness, and support a more premium sensorial feel during wear. I also included grapeseed oil is for its lightweight emollience and slip, promoting smooth, even lash coverage while maintaining a non-greasy formulation. Myrica fruit wax is used because it acts as a natural structuring wax that improves thickness, stability, and film performance.

Not sure which materials to select? That’s okay, read our go-to guide on cosmetic ingredients here for more information.


5. Select colourant and ancillary agents

I have selected traditional black pigment to provide intense colour payoff and strong lash definition. For the preservative I have selected Naticide for its broad-spectrum microbial protection and mild almond aroma. Mixed tocopherols are incorporated to provide antioxidant protection, helping to maintain formulation stability and reduce oxidative degradation.
 

6. Click Generate Method
 

Then here is my formula, and here is the method!  

Now all you need to do is find your nearest cosmetic ingredient suppliers, order the materials, and get making your fantastic shampoo formulas!

Once you’ve made one formula, you’ll be keen to make more! With Create Cosmetic Formulas, you have almost limitless formulation creation, and just one low annual subscription.

It really is that simple.

Happy formulating!

 

Take our quiz: should you use a program to create cosmetic formulas or learn cosmetic science?
Find out which solution is best for you with our simple quiz!
 

Try the create cosmetic formulas program today! We’re so confident you’ll love how it helps you create cosmetic formulas, it comes with a 24-hour money back guarantee.

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