How to use plant oils, triglycerides, esters & silicones in cosmetic formulas

 

Oils in cosmetic formulas can be referred to using a variety of different names, with an even greater choice in sources! From plant oils to esters, triglycerides, mineral oils and even silicones – this diverse cosmetic ingredient category may also be referred to chemically as lipids.

So why might you choose certain oils over others in a cosmetic formula, and how much should you use? One of the great things about the Create Cosmetic Formulas program is you don’t need to know how to properly choose or use various oils to get the best results in your cosmetic formula! The program will guide you on which oils suit which cosmetic formulas, in which amounts, and how they should be processed to ensure they go into the formula correctly.

If you’re super new to formulating and not sure about how to start, enjoy our FREE Cosmetic Formulation Masterclass first, to get you used to formulating tips and terms. This masterclass will also help you gather essential equipment and get used to reading formulas and how to put products together.

But just in case you wanted to know a little more about how to use oils in cosmetic formulas, read on to find out…

If you are new to formulating, get started right with our FREE Cosmetic Formulation Fundamentals Masterclass – register and start straight away here.
 

How to use plant oils, triglycerides, esters & silicones in cosmetic formulas

What do oils do in cosmetic formulas?

Lipids in skincare formulas will have an emollient effect on the skin: they will help create a breathable layer to reduce trans-epidermal water loss, which thereby boosts the hydration kept within the skin; soften the skin; and may also be used to improve gloss where desired, specifically in lip balms, glosses and sticks. They may also be used in hair care, when carefully selected, for various conditioning benefits also.

 

What types of oils suit different types of cosmetic formulas?

The most common classes of lipids used in cosmetic formulas include:

  • plant oils: consumers love a natural product story, and using natural plant oils can be a great addition to many types of cosmetic formulas to boost the naturalness of a cosmetic formula. Plant oils can contain various fatty acids, vitamins and other benefits to skincare and hair care formulas too. Just be careful when using plant oils, however, because they can be prone to oxidation (unsuitable changes over time), so a suitable antioxidant usually needs to be used; and they can make cosmetic formulas feel a little heavy or greasy when used in higher quantities. They can be mixed with medium skin feel triglycerides or lighter skin feel esters to get the balance right, if desired.
  • plant butters: also derived from natural sources, plant butters are typically semi-solid to solid at room temperatures. They tend to add a heavier, richer and/or more emollient feel to cosmetic formulas, and can be added to enhance the sensory experience. Just be careful: the are also commonly prone to oxidation, and don’t be fooled into thinking plant butters should be used to help your cosmetic formulas set into a suitable viscosity! They are subject to climate changes far more than viscosity modifying waxes, and when plant butters are used to set a cosmetic formula, you will often find your balm in cooler climates becomes a runny liquid when exposed to even moderate warmth
  • triglycerides: obtained from coconut or palm oil (usually), triglycerides are a great medium skin feel alternative without the oxidation issues of most plant oils. They can also be used to achieve a less greasy skin feel in a finished cosmetic formula, or used as part of the lipid content to lighten a natural skin cream formula.
  • esters: esters are derived from various oil sources; they can be totally naturally derived, totally synthetic, or a combination of both depending on their starting materials. Esters can also be created to manipulate skin feel and performance in a finished product formula, and even mimic the properties of various plant oils and silicones. They are such a diverse class of lipid materials that you will normally need to investigate them further from your suppliers to choose the material with the right skin or hair feel for your formulation needs.
  • mineral oils: derived from petrolatum sources, they are considered synthetic but are also highly refined (and not at all like the petrol you put in your car). As a class of cosmetic ingredients, they can also be quite diverse, but most simple mineral oils are often light in skin feel with some shine. They are also non-oxidising and usually quite cheap, so can be ideal in some cosmetic formulas where these qualities are desirable.
  • silicones: another very diverse category of cosmetic ingredients, silicones can vary significantly from very low molecular weight volatile materials, to greatly manipulated gel like emollients. Contrary to what you might read on the internet, these materials are not harmful, occlusive or bad for the environment. Watch this video to learn the truth about silicones used in skin and hair care formulas.

 

How do you choose the right type of oils for cosmetic formulas?

The Create Cosmetic Formulas program only lists the types of cosmetic oils that suit each type of cosmetic formulas with descriptions of what they will do for the skin (or the hair), to help you with selection. Watch this video to see how the Create Cosmetic Formulas program works.

The program will also provide the best inputs to suit each cosmetic formula type, so you don’t need to know what each type of oil will do, which type of oil will suit each type of formula, or even how much you should use to create great cosmetic formulas every time.

The Create Cosmetic Formulas program will also instantly pick up when you’ve chosen plant oils, or when antioxidant may be needed to help improve the shelf life of your cosmetic formula – with the right choices and inputs to properly protect your cosmetic formula too.

Just follow the program and it will guide your selection every step of the way!    
 

What about other types of cosmetic oils?

This is only a small selection of some of the more commonly used oils and lipids in cosmetic formulas, with processing methods to suit the more commonly used cosmetic formulation types.  

If you want to start selecting your own oils and lipids, try our workshop on how to select the right oils and lipids for your cosmetic formulas here. This workshop helps explain why you might choose certain lipids or oils over others, with examples that are commonly available from cosmetic ingredient small suppliers.

You can of course study more with us at the Institute of Personal Care Science. From beginner cosmetic science workshops through to advanced cosmetic science and full Cosmetic Chemist qualification training programs, we teach you every step of the way to help you achieve your cosmetic formulation goals. Contact us for more information or visit our website to review the various courses available – 100% online – so you can study cosmetic science at a time and place that suits you.
 

Happy formulating!

 

Take our quiz: should you use a program to create cosmetic formulas or learn cosmetic science?
Find out which solution is best for you with our simple quiz!
 

Try the create cosmetic formulas program today! We’re so confident you’ll love how it helps you create cosmetic formulas, it comes with a 24-hour money back guarantee.

See how easy it is to: