Antioxidants vs preservatives: what is the difference?

 

With so much conflicting information on the internet about cosmetic ingredients, you may be wondering: are antioxidants preservatives, and what is the difference anyway?


The short answer is no: antioxidants are not preservatives, but, depending on the type of cosmetic formula you are creating and the cosmetic ingredients you are using, they may both be very essential to help extend the shelf life of your finished product. So… what is the difference, and when do you need them?
 

Antioxidants vs preservatives: what is the difference?

 

What do antioxidants do in a cosmetic formula?

Antioxidants provide two functions in a personal care formulation:

  • act as antioxidants on the skin to reduce free radical damage to skin cells – this concept we won’t be covering in this blog as this function does not protect the cosmetic formula.
  • act as antioxidants to protect a cosmetic formulation from oxidation and undesirable changes over time – such as colour and aroma – this is the concept we will be exploring.


Not all antioxidants will provide both of these functions. For example, dl-alpha-tocopherol acetate and ascorbic acid are both great antioxidants for the skin, but do nothing to protect a cosmetic formula. In fact, they act as food sources for micro-organisms, increasing the need for good preservation!


There are also loads of different herbal extracts you can add to a cosmetic formula with great antioxidant benefits for the skin, but no shelf life extending benefits for the cosmetic formula.


The antioxidants that provide shelf-life protective benefits for cosmetic formulas include d-alpha tocopherol and mixed tocopherols. You can also get a resinous rosemary extract (different to a glycerin-based rosemary extract) with exceptional antioxidant benefits, although it does have a strong herbal aroma which may or may not compliment your cosmetic formula. You are guided in the selection of a variety of cosmetic formulation protecting antioxidants in the Create Cosmetic Formulas program – so no need to feel overwhelmed or confused, our program will help you select the right materials every step of the way.

 

Are antioxidants needed in all formulas?

Antioxidants to protect a cosmetic formula are only essential where the formula contains vegetable or essential oils. Some actives may also require the addition of antioxidants to ensure their long term performance.


Generally, the more of an oxidative material you have in your cosmetic formula – such as plant or essential oils – the more antioxidant you are going to need, up to a certain point. In fact, there is such a thing as too much antioxidant; a point at which the antioxidant starts to have a prooxidative effect in a formula!


Luckily, we have prepared all inputs of antioxidant materials in the Create Cosmetic Formulas program to be within the range you will need to ensure antioxidant protection of the formula without causing a detrimental effect.

 

What do preservatives do in a cosmetic formula?

Cosmetic preservatives act to kill or inhibit microbial growth in a cosmetic formula. Micro-organisms such as yeast, mould and bacteria are very opportunistic, and found just about everywhere. Air exposure, contamination during use, and even tiny amounts of unavoidable contamination during production all add to the micro-burden of a cosmetic product – so preservatives are needed to combat what is present, or may be introduced, to a cosmetic product over time.


Not all preservatives are suitable for all formulation types – and no one input is perfect for every preservative in every formula. In the Create Cosmetic Formulas program, we only list the preservatives that will give broad spectrum protection, in the amounts that are needed, to ensure every formula you create is appropriately protected.
 

Are preservatives needed in all formulas?

In general, all cosmetic formulas with a reasonable water content (above 5%), will need a broad spectrum preservative that suits the final pH of the formula and is used in the correct amount.


Different cosmetic preservatives have different input rates to obtain the best performance without irritation (and to comply with cosmetic regulations); while different cosmetic formulas will require the use of certain types of cosmetic preservatives to get the required microbial protection.


The Create Cosmetic Formulas program takes the confusion out of selecting the right preservative – and correct input – for all of your cosmetic formulas. We have designed the program to make sure you are guided in the right selection and input every time, to get the best results in your cosmetic formula.

 

What testing do you need to conduct when selling cosmetic products?

When selling cosmetic products, you need to hold proof that your cosmetic formula will maintain its required quality, without excessive microbial contamination, for the shelf life of the product. The shelf life should normally be two years, but you can’t wait that long to release product, so how do you prove your cosmetic formulation is suitable to be sold?

 

  1. Start with a good formula that has the correct theory behind ingredient selection – our Create Cosmetic Formulas program takes care of that part for you.
  2. Conduct essential shelf life testing. Even with a great formula, you still need to conduct a minimum requirement of testing to prove you have checked the quality of your cosmetic formula. You can learn how to conduct this testing for yourself, quickly and easily, with our Stability Testing for Small Cosmetic Brands workshop series or learn professional-level stability testing with our  Certificate in Cosmetic Quality and Stability.

 

So, now it’s over to you to get creating!
What type of cosmetic formula would you like to create today?


Did you know there are three types of the create cosmetic formulas program that make it easy for you to create cosmetic formulas fast and easily – and always get a formula that works!

 

Haven’t tried the create cosmetic formulas program yet? Enjoy it RISK FREE for 24 hours, to see how easy it can make formulating for you.

Happy formulating!

 


Ready for more professional cosmetic formulation training?


If you are ready to take the next step and want to learn how to make all cosmetic ingredient and input choices for yourself, study either:

  • Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science – ideal if you want to develop formulas for your own cosmetic brand where you don’t need the qualification or title ‘Cosmetic Chemist’ OR
  • Diploma of Personal Care Formulation – this qualification will give you the title ‘Cosmetic Chemist’ and is the qualification that employers look for on a resume. If you want a career in the Personal Care Industry or to be a properly qualified Cosmetic Chemist, this is the course you should study with the Institute of Personal Care Science.

Both of the above training programs contain full cosmetic quality and stability testing training, as well as how to create unique cosmetic formulations specific to your needs.